Back Loop Only (BLO) and Front Loop Only (FLO) Double Crochet

By the DoubleCrochet Team | Last Updated: November 2026 | Skill Level: Beginner

To work a back loop double crochet (dc BLO), yarn over, insert your hook under only the back strand of the top V (the loop farthest away from you), and complete a standard double crochet (yarn over, pull up a loop, [yarn over, pull through 2 loops] twice). To work a front loop double crochet (dc FLO), yarn over and insert your hook under only the front strand of the top V (the loop closest to you). Leaving one strand of the top V unworked creates a horizontal surface line across the fabric—producing elastic, accordion-style ridges when worked in BLO and a smooth, elongated drape when worked in FLO.

(Terminology note: This tutorial uses US crochet terms; in UK patterns, a US double crochet (dc) is called a treble crochet (tr), so dc BLO is written as tr BLO or BLtr.)

Inserting your hook under only the back loop (BLO) leaves the front strand of the V exposed on the surface, creating a flexible horizontal ridge.

Quick Reference: dc BLO & dc FLO Specifications

Front Loop vs. Back Loop Anatomy (And What Happens When You Turn Your Work)

When you look straight down at the top edge of a finished row of double crochet, every stitch is capped by a sideways teardrop or V shape made of two strands of yarn:

1. The Front Loop (FLO): The strand of the top V that sits closest to your chest as you hold the work.
2. The Back Loop (BLO): The strand of the top V that sits farthest away from you on the far side of the stitch.
3. The 3rd Horizontal Loop (Back Bar): A horizontal strand lying on the back face of the stitch just below the back loop, created by the yarn-over before the final pull-through of the double crochet.

Why Front and Back Are Always Relative to the Side Facing You

One rule confuses almost every beginner at first: "Front Loop" and "Back Loop" are determined by how you are holding the piece right now—not by the Right Side (RS) or Wrong Side (WS) of the project.

When you finish Row 1 and turn your work over to start Row 2, the two strands of the V trade places relative to your body. Because you turn the fabric at the end of every flat row:

• Working dc BLO on every turned row leaves the unworked front loop on the Right Side on odd rows and on the Wrong Side on even rows, creating reversible horizontal ridges on both sides of your fabric.
• Working dc BLO in continuous or joined rounds without turning (such as on a hat crown or amigurumi basket) leaves every unworked front loop on the outside (Right Side) of the project while the inside remains smooth.

How to Back Loop Double Crochet (dc BLO) Step-by-Step

Step-by-Step Instructions: dc BLO

1. Yarn Over (yo): Wrap the working yarn from back to front over your crochet hook.
2. Insert into the Back Loop Only: Bring the tip of your hook down into the center of the top V of the next stitch and push it out underneath only the back strand (the loop farthest from you). Check that only 1 strand of the V is resting on top of your hook shaft, while the unworked front strand sits untouched in front of your hook.
3. Pull Up a Loop: Yarn over and draw a loop up through the back loop. You now have 3 loops on your hook.
4. First Pull-Through: Yarn over and pull through the first 2 loops on your hook (2 loops remain).
5. Final Pull-Through: Yarn over and pull through the remaining 2 loops on your hook. One dc BLO is complete, and you will see a neat horizontal line formed by the unworked front loop right at the base of your stitch.

The Edge Lock Trick: Work Under BOTH Loops on the Final Stitch of the Row

When you work into only a single strand (BLO or FLO) at the very end of a row, the weight of the next turning chain pulls that single strand upward into a large, stretched-out eyelet.

• How to Fix It: Work dc BLO across every stitch of the row until 1 stitch remains. On that very last stitch of the row, insert your hook under both top loops (a standard dc)—or under the back loop AND the 3rd horizontal bar together. Anchoring the final stitch under two strands keeps both side edges of scarves, beanies, and blankets straight and firm.

How to Front Loop Double Crochet (dc FLO) Step-by-Step

1. Yarn Over (yo): Wrap the working yarn from back to front over your hook.
2. Insert into the Front Loop Only: Bring your hook tip from the front of the work underneath only the front strand of the next top V (the loop closest to you), angling the hook upward so it exits right through the center between the front and back loops.
3. Complete the Double Crochet: Yarn over and pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), yarn over and pull through 2 loops (2 loops remain), yarn over and pull through the final 2 loops.

3 Practical Uses for Front Loop Only (FLO) Double Crochet

1. Outward Hat Brims & Ruffled Edges: Working a single transition round in dc FLO (as on Round 13 of our bucket hat) leaves the back loop inside to act as a hinge, kicking the fabric outward at a crisp angle.
2. Layered Surface Ruffles & Amigurumi Skirts: If you work one round of a garment or doll body in BLO, you intentionally leave a neat horizontal row of unworked front loops (FLO) sitting on the surface. Later, you can attach new yarn directly into those exposed front loops to crochet a skirt, collar, or layered flower petals.
3. Alternating FLO and BLO Across the Same Row (Textured Weave): Alternating *1 dc FLO, 1 dc BLO* across each row staggers the stitch bases forward and backward, creating a pebbled, interlocking basket texture with zero gaps.

4 Swatches Compared: Standard DC vs. DC BLO vs. DC FLO vs. Post Ribbing (FPdc/BPdc)

How does working into a single loop change your fabric compared to standard double crochet or post-stitch ribbing? Compare the four textures side by side:

When to Choose BLO Ribbing vs. Post-Stitch Ribbing: If you are crocheting a hat or headband sideways in flat rows (where the rows run vertically from crown to brim and stretch around the head), dc BLO (or hdc BLO, as used in our ribbed ear warmer) gives you soft, flexible ribbing without extra bulk. If you are crocheting a sweater cuff or top-down hat brim in the round, use post-stitch ribbing (FPdc / BPdc) instead, because working BLO in the round creates horizontal rings rather than vertical ribs.

Worked Practice Swatch: 16-Stitch dc BLO Ribbed Sample (With Arithmetic)

Want to feel how dc BLO behaves before starting a project? Grab scrap worsted-weight (#4) yarn and a 5.0 mm (H-8) hook to work this 16-stitch × 6-row sample swatch (approx. 4.5" × 3.25", estimate):

• Foundation Chain: Ch 18 (16 desired stitches + 2 chains for the starting dc turning height).
• Row 1 (Base Row — Worked in Chain): Work 1 dc into the 4th chain from the hook (the 3 skipped chains count as your first dc), then work 1 dc into each of the remaining 14 chains across. Turn.
  • Row 1 Arithmetic: 1 starting ch-3 + 1 dc in 4th ch + 14 dc across = 16 dc total.
• Row 2 (dc BLO Row with Both-Loops Edge Lock): Ch 2 (does not count as a stitch—using a non-counting ch 2 on BLO ribbing keeps the side edges gap-free), work 1 dc BLO into the very first stitch at the base of the ch 2, and work 1 dc BLO into each of the next 14 stitches across (15 dc BLO made). In the 16th (final) stitch, work 1 standard dc under both top loops. Turn.
  • Row 2 Arithmetic: 15 dc BLO + 1 final dc under both loops = 16 sts total.
• Rows 3–6: Repeat Row 2 four more times (15 dc BLO + 1 both-loops edge dc = 16 sts per row). Rotate the finished swatch 90 degrees and gently stretch it horizontally to test its accordion elasticity!

Does Double Crochet Have a 3rd Loop? (How to Find and Work Into It)

While half double crochet (hdc) is famous for its prominent 3rd loop (used for knit-look camel stitch), double crochet also has a 3rd horizontal loop tucked on the back side of the stitch just below the top V.

You can use the double crochet 3rd loop in two ways:

1. 3rd Loop Only (dc in 3rd loop — Faux-Knit Braid): Tilt the top of the previous row slightly toward you to spot the horizontal strand running right beneath the back loop. Insert your hook under only that 3rd horizontal bar. Because both the front loop and the back loop of the V are left unworked, the entire V tilts forward onto the front of the fabric like a raised knitted stockinette braid.
2. Back Loop + 3rd Loop Together (Stabilized dc BLO): Sometimes working under a single back loop (dc BLO) pulls that lone strand upward and leaves small pinhole gaps along the ridge. If you insert your hook under both the back loop AND the 3rd horizontal bar at the same time, the front loop still forms a crisp horizontal ridge on the surface, but the two rear strands lock the stitch down so it cannot stretch open!

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)