Textured StitchesEasy

V-Stitch Crochet: How to Make the V-Stitch

The V-stitch is two double crochets with a chain between them, worked into one stitch. It makes an airy, quick fabric for blankets and shawls.

Edited by Alice Jackie
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Ochre-gold worsted-weight crochet swatch worked in the classic double crochet V-stitch on a natural linen surface with a brushed gold 5.0mm H-8 ergonomic crochet hook in the active loop

Stitch at a glance

US terms
V-stitchV-st
UK terms
V-stitchV-st
Easy

Turning chain: Ch 3 (counts as the edge dc)

To make a classic crochet V-stitch (V-st), work (1 double crochet, chain 1, 1 double crochet) all into the same stitch or space, then skip 2 stitches before working the next V-stitch. Because the two skipped stitches offset the two new stitches you added, the fabric stays completely flat while forming stacked vertical columns of open, lacy Vs that work up rapidly on a foundation chain multiple of 3 + 1.

US vs. UK terminology note: In US crochet terms, a classic V-stitch is worked as (dc, ch 1, dc) into the same stitch or space. In UK crochet terms, where a US double crochet is called a treble crochet, the exact same V-stitch is written as (tr, ch 1, tr).

V-Stitch Quick Reference

Property

Detail

Stitch Name & Abbreviation

V-stitch (or Double Crochet V-Stitch) — V-st

US Stitch Formula

(dc, ch 1, dc) worked into the same stitch or ch-1 space

UK Stitch Formula

(tr, ch 1, tr) worked into the same stitch or ch-1 space

Foundation Chain Multiple

Multiple of 3 + 1 (or Multiple of 3 + 2; see arithmetic breakdown below)

First Stitch on Foundation

First V-st worked in the 5th chain from the hook

Row 2+ Hook Placement

Work each new V-st directly into the center ch-1 space of the V-st below

Standard Turning Chain

ch 3 (counts as the single dc edge border stitch at the start of the row)

Crochet Chart Symbol

Two dc (T with 1 crossbar) angled outward from the same base stitch with 1 oval ch (○) bridged between their tops

How to Make a V-Stitch Step by Step

If you know how to chain (ch) and double crochet (dc), you already know every motion required for the V-stitch:

  1. Work the first leg (1 dc): Yarn over, insert your hook into the target stitch or ch-1 space, yarn over and pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), then [yarn over, pull through 2 loops] twice.
  2. Create the center window (ch 1): Yarn over and pull through the active loop on your hook to make 1 chain stitch. This single chain pushes the tops of the two legs apart to form the open point of the V.
  3. Work the second leg (1 dc in the same place): Yarn over, insert your hook into the exact same base stitch or space, and complete a second double crochet.
Close-up of a single classic V-stitch (dc, ch 1, dc) worked into one foundation chain stitch in ochre-gold yarn with a brushed gold crochet hook
  1. Skip 2 stitches before the next V-stitch: Because your (dc, ch 1, dc) group occupies the width of 3 stitches (2 dc posts + 1 ch), you must skip the next 2 stitches along the foundation chain (or skip straight to the next ch-1 space on Row 2) before making your next V-stitch. That is the key difference between a dc increase vs V-stitch: a standard dc increase adds width without skipping stitches, whereas the V-stitch skips 2 stitches to keep your stitch count constant.

V-Stitch Practice Swatch (Multiple of 3 + 1 With Verified Math)

To see how the foundation chain, skipped chains, and edge stitches fit together with zero leftover chains, let's work a 4-column V-stitch practice swatch across 3 rows.

Foundation Chain (Ch 16 for 4 V-Stitches + 2 Edge Stitches)

  • Formula: Chain a multiple of 3 + 1. For 5 groups of 3 plus 1, make a slip knot and chain 16 (5 × 3 + 1 = 16 ch).
  • How all 16 chains are used on Row 1:
    • Chains 1–4 from hook (4 chains skipped): Stand in for your right-hand 1 dc edge stitch (3 ch) plus 1 skipped base chain (1 ch) = 4 chains used (12 chains remain).
    • Chain 5 from hook (1 chain): Holds your 1st V-stitch (dc, ch 1, dc) = 1 chain used (11 chains remain).
    • Chains 6–14 (9 chains): Repeat *skip 2 chains, work 1 V-stitch in the next chain* 3 times (3 × 3 = 9 chains used; 2 chains remain).
    • Chains 15–16 (2 chains): Skip 1 chain (Chain 15) and work 1 dc into the last chain (Chain 16) to form your left-hand edge border stitch = 2 chains used (0 chains remain).

(Note: Why do some patterns say Multiple of 3 + 2 instead of 3 + 1? In a 3 + 2 pattern, you simply skip 2 chains instead of 1 chain before working the final edge dc into the last chain. Both formulas produce the exact same number of V-stitches!)

Row 1 (4 V-sts + 2 edge dc = 14 stitches/spaces)

  1. Work (dc, ch 1, dc) into the 5th chain from the hook (your first V-stitch; the 4 skipped chains count as 1 edge dc + 1 skipped chain).
  2. *Skip the next 2 chains, work (dc, ch 1, dc) into the next chain*; repeat from * 3 times across (you now have 4 V-stitches).
  3. With 2 chains remaining at the end of the cord, skip 1 chain and work 1 dc into the last chain.
  4. Check your count: 1 right edge dc (skipped chs) + 4 V-stitches (4 × 3 = 12 sts/sps) + 1 left edge dc = 14 stitch units.

Row 2 (4 V-sts + 2 edge dc)

  1. Chain 3 and turn (ch 3, turn): This ch 3 turning chain counts as the first edge dc of Row 2.
  2. Work into the center of each V-stitch: Skip the first dc leg of the V-stitch below and insert your hook directly into the ch-1 space at the center of the first V-stitch. Work (dc, ch 1, dc) into that ch-1 space.
Close-up of a brushed gold crochet hook inserting directly into the center chain-1 space of a V-stitch from the row below on Row 2
  1. Continue across: Work (dc, ch 1, dc) into the center ch-1 space of each of the remaining 3 V-stitches across the row (4 V-stitches total). Important: Always work inside the ch-1 space between the two legs of the same V—never into the gap between two separate V-stitches, or your columns will shift and gain stitches.
  2. Work the final edge stitch: Work 1 dc into the 3rd chain of the previous row's starting chain (the top of the turning chain).

Row 3 (4 V-sts + 2 edge dc)

  • Repeat Row 2: Ch 3, turn (counts as first edge dc), work (dc, ch 1, dc) into the ch-1 space of each V-stitch across (4 V-sts), and work 1 dc into the top of the ch-3 turning chain.

Keeping the Edges Straight in V-Stitch Rows

Because V-stitches slant outward, a row of V-stitches without border posts will have jagged, scalloped sides. That is why every flat V-stitch pattern frames the row with one vertical dc post at each end:

Rectangular ochre-gold V-stitch crochet swatch on light wood showing four neat vertical columns of V-stitches framed by straight double crochet side borders
  • At the start of every row: Your ch 3 turning chain stands straight up as the right-hand border post. Never work an extra stitch into the base of that ch 3—jump straight into the ch-1 space of the first V-stitch.
  • At the end of every row: After working your last V-stitch into the final ch-1 space, you must work 1 dc into the top of the previous row's turning chain. Forgetting this final dc is the #1 reason beginners get a diagonal or narrowing edge; clip a stitch marker into the 3rd chain of every ch 3 turning chain as soon as you make it so the target is impossible to miss.

4 Popular V-Stitch Variations

Changing the center chain or the stitch height gives you four distinct fabrics from the same technique:

Side-by-side comparison of an ochre-gold classic (dc, ch 1, dc) V-stitch swatch on the left and a sage-green chainless (2 dc) V-stitch swatch on the right

Variation Name

How It Is Worked

Foundation Chain Multiple

Fabric Look & Best Use

1. Classic V-Stitch (dc, ch 1, dc)

(dc, ch 1, dc) in same st/sp, skip 2 sts below

Multiple of 3 + 1 (or 3 + 2)

Open, lacy vertical columns; fast-growing wraps, shawls, and lightweight blankets

2. Chainless V-Stitch (2 dc)

Work 2 dc in same st (no ch 1), skip 1 st below; on Row 2, work 2 dc between the 2 posts of each V

Any even number (Multiple of 2)

Denser, warmer fabric with smaller holes; popular for modern baby blankets

3. Double V-Stitch (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc)

Work (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in same st/sp, skip 3 sts below (a hybrid between V-stitch and shell stitch)

Multiple of 4 + 2

Bold, plush, textured columns with rich drape for throws and afghans

4. Half Double Crochet V-Stitch (hdc, ch 1, hdc)

Work (hdc, ch 1, hdc) in same st/sp, skip 2 sts below (start Row 1 in 4th ch from hook; turn with ch 2)

Multiple of 3 + 1

Shorter, firmer rows ideal for washcloths, summer tops, and baby garments

Where to Use the V-Stitch (And Blanket Sizing Tips)

Because you only insert your hook into the large ch-1 spaces from Row 2 onward, you can crochet the V-stitch almost by feel without looking down at every stitch. It is a favorite for:

  • Baby blankets and striped throws: Alternating yarn colors every 1 or 2 rows turns the stacked Vs into a modern chevron/rick-rack pattern. Ready to make one? Follow our step-by-step V-stitch baby blanket pattern.
  • Custom-width blankets and scarves: Want to calculate the exact starting chain for a stroller blanket, throw, or king bedspread using your own yarn and gauge? Enter your swatch gauge and Multiple of 3 + 1 into our pattern repeat calculator.
  • Summer tops, beach cover-ups, and market bags: Worked in cotton or linen-blend yarn, the open ch-1 windows keep garments cool and breathable.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the foundation chain multiple for the crochet V-stitch?

For the classic (dc, ch 1, dc) V-stitch where you skip 2 chains between V-stitches, chain a multiple of 3 + 1 (such as 16, 19, 22, or 100 chains) and work your first V-stitch into the 5th chain from the hook. If you are working the denser chainless 2-dc V-stitch (skipping 1 chain between pairs), chain any even number (multiple of 2) and start in the 4th chain from the hook.

Where do you put the V-stitch on the second row?

On Row 2 and every row after, work each V-stitch directly into the open ch-1 space at the center of the V-stitch from the row below—Right between its two double crochet legs. Never work into the space between two separate V-stitches, or your columns will stagger instead of stacking vertically.

What is the difference between a V-stitch, a double crochet increase, and a shell stitch?

  • dc increase vs V-stitch: A standard dc increase works 2 dc into one stitch without skipping adjacent stitches, which adds width to your row. A V-stitch works (dc, ch 1, dc) into one stitch and skips 2 stitches, keeping your stitch count flat.
  • Shell stitch vs V-stitch: A V-stitch uses only 2 posts separated by a chain space (dc, ch 1, dc), whereas a shell stitch fans 3, 5, or 7 double crochets into the same stitch to create a solid scalloped fan.

Why is my V-stitch project getting wider on every row?

Accidental increases happen when you work a V-stitch into the space at the base of the ch 3 turning chain or when you work into the gaps between V-stitches in addition to the ch-1 spaces inside the V-stitches. Count your Vs at the end of every row—if your first row had 4 V-stitches between the two edge dc posts, every row must have 4 V-stitches.

How do I change colors cleanly in V-stitch stripes?

Work the final edge dc of the row (into the top of the turning chain) until 2 loops remain on your hook. Drop the old color, yarn over with the new color, and pull the new color through those last 2 loops to finish the stitch; then chain 3 with the new color and turn.

Questions & notes

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