Double Crochet Round Coaster Pattern (Free)

This double crochet round coaster pattern creates a classic, absorbent drink coaster worked outward from the center in four joined rounds (12 → 24 → 36 → 48 double crochet stitches) using 100% worsted-weight cotton yarn. Because it follows the universal 12-stitch flat circle formula, it is the best first project for practicing double crochet in the round and takes only 15 minutes and about 18 yards of cotton per coaster. Below you'll find the complete 4-round pattern, how to stagger Round 4 so your coaster forms a smooth circle instead of a 12-pointed polygon, and how to finish the rim with an invisible needle join.

This pattern is written in US crochet terms (where US double crochet dc is called treble crochet tr in UK terms, and US single crochet sc is called double crochet dc in UK terms).

Pattern At a Glance & Skill Notes

Specification	Details
Skill Level	Beginner (first project in the round; uses magic ring, `ch`, `dc`, `dc inc`, and `sl st`)
Round-by-Round Stitch Count	Rnd 1: `12 dc` → Rnd 2: `24 dc` → Rnd 3: `36 dc` → Rnd 4: `48 dc` (`+12 dc` per round)
Finished Diameter	Approx. `4.25" to 4.5"` (`11 to 11.5 cm`) across (estimate)
Recommended Yarn	100% Worsted-Weight (#4 Medium) Cotton Yarn (unmercerized or mercerized)
Estimated Yardage	Approx. 16–20 yds (`15–18 m` / ~10–12 g) per coaster; ~70–80 yds (`64–73 m`) for a set of 4 (estimate)
Recommended Hook	`4.5 mm (US 7)` or `5.0 mm (US H-8)` crochet hook

Materials and Gauge

Materials Needed

Yarn: 100% Worsted-Weight (#4 Medium) Cotton Yarn (~16–20 yds / 10–12 g per coaster, estimate).
- Why 100% Cotton?: Cotton absorbs cold condensation from iced glasses so water doesn't pool onto wooden tables, and it withstands hot coffee mugs without melting or sticking.
Crochet Hook: 4.5 mm (US 7) for a firm, structured coaster that holds its shape without starch, or 5.0 mm (US H-8) if you crochet tightly.
Notions: Blunt metal tapestry needle (#16) for weaving in the magic ring tail and completing the invisible needle join, 1 locking stitch marker (optional), and scissors.

Gauge

Target Gauge: Complete 4-round circle measures 4.25" to 4.5" (11 to 11.5 cm) in diameter (estimate).
If you want to expand the coaster into a 6-inch teapot trivet or a 12-inch round placemat, use our interactive circle calculator to generate the exact stitch counts for any number of rounds.

Stitches and Abbreviations (US Terms)

ch — chain
dc — double crochet (UK: treble crochet tr)
inc (or 2 dc in next st) — double crochet increase: work 2 double crochet stitches into the exact same stitch
MR — magic ring (adjustable starting loop)
rep — repeat
rnd(s) — round(s)
sc — single crochet (UK: double crochet dc)
sl st — slip stitch
st(s) — stitch(es)

Pattern Notes

Starting Ring Options: Begin with a magic ring so you can cinch the center hole completely shut (preventing condensation from dripping through the middle of the coaster). If you prefer a chain ring, ch 4 and join with a sl st into the first chain to form a ring.
Does the Beginning Ch 2 (or Ch 3) Count as a Stitch?:
- In this pattern, beginning ch 3 counts as the first dc of each round (or you may use ch 2 counted as a stitch if ch 3 leaves a small gap in your tension).
- Because the starting chain counts as Stitch #1, your first 2 dc increase on Round 2 is completed by working 1 additional dc into the exact same stitch at the base of the starting chain.
Avoid the Slip-Stitch Join Trap: At the end of every round, you join with a sl st into the top of the starting chain. That slip stitch pulls tight horizontally and is not a stitch—never work into the slip-stitch join on the next round, or you will accidentally add a 13th increase!

Step-by-Step Instructions (4 Rounds: 12 → 24 → 36 → 48 dc)

Four-panel overhead progression diagram of a terracotta cotton round coaster showing Round 1 (12 dc in Magic Ring), Round 2 (24 dc), Round 3 (36 dc), and Round 4 (48 dc)

Starting Ring

Make a magic ring (or ch 4 and sl st in 1st ch to form a ring).

Round 1 (12 dc): Ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), work 11 dc into the center of the ring. Pull the starting yarn tail firmly to close the center hole, and join with a sl st into the top (3rd chain) of the beginning ch 3. — 12 dc (Math check: 1 starting ch-3 + 11 worked dc = 12 dc).
Round 2 (24 dc — Increase in Every Stitch): Ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), work 1 dc into the same stitch at the base of the ch 3 (first increase made). Work 2 dc into each of the remaining 11 stitches around. Join with a sl st to the top of the beginning ch 3. — 24 dc (Math check: 12 × 2 = 24 dc).
Round 3 (36 dc — Increase Every 2nd Stitch): Ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), work 2 dc into the next stitch (first [dc, inc] repeat complete). *`Work 1 dc in the next st, work 2 dc in the next st; rep from ` 10 more times around. Join with a sl st to the top of the beginning ch 3. — 36 dc (Math check: 12 repeats × 3 sts = 36 dc).*
Round 4 (48 dc — Standard OR Staggered Circle Option):
- Option A — Standard Stacked Round 4: Ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), work 1 dc in next st, work 2 dc in next st. *`Work 1 dc in each of the next 2 sts, work 2 dc in next st; rep from ` 10 more times around. — 48 dc (Math check: 12 repeats × 4 sts = 48 dc).*
- Option B — Staggered Round 4 for a Smoother Circle (Recommended): Ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), work 2 dc in the next st, work 1 dc in the next st (first [dc, inc, dc] repeat complete). *`Work 1 dc in next st, work 2 dc in next st, work 1 dc in next st; rep from ` 10 more times around. — 48 dc (Math check: 12 repeats × 4 sts = 48 dc).*

Pro Tip: Why Staggering Round 4 Prevents a 12-Pointed Polygon

Side-by-side macro comparison in mustard-gold cotton showing Stacked Increases where points align at 12 corners on the left versus Staggered Round 4 with a smooth circular outer edge on the right

When you stack every 2 dc increase directly into the second stitch of the previous round's increase (Option A), those 12 increase points line up like spokes on a wheel, pushing the outer rim into a slight 12-sided polygon (dodecagon).

By splitting the two single stitches on Round 4 (Option B: 1 dc, 2 dc in next st, 1 dc), every Round 4 increase lands halfway between the increases of Round 3. The stitch count stays identical (48 dc), but the corners disappear into a smooth, true circle!

Finishing: The Invisible Needle Join & Weaving In the Magic Ring Tail

Instead of ending Round 4 with a slip stitch and a bumpy knot on the rim of your coaster, use a 10-second invisible needle join so glasses rest completely flat:

Macro step-by-step tutorial photograph showing a blunt tapestry needle threading the yarn tail under both loops of the first double crochet stitch and back into the center of the 48th stitch for an invisible needle join

Cut & Pull Up: After completing the 48th dc of Round 4, do not slip stitch to join. Cut the yarn leaving a 6-inch (15 cm) tail, and pull the loop straight up and out with your hook.
Create the False Stitch Cap: Thread the tail onto your tapestry needle. Skip the beginning ch 3 and insert the needle from front to back under both top loops of the first full dc stitch (the 2nd stitch of the round). Pull the yarn snug until the loop matches the size of the neighboring top Vs.
Complete the V: Insert the needle straight down into the center of the top V of the 48th stitch (where the yarn tail originally came from) and pull through to the wrong side (WS). The join now looks identical to every other stitch around the perimeter!
Lock the Magic Ring Center Tail: Flip the coaster to the wrong side (WS). Thread the starting magic ring tail onto your needle and weave it halfway around the base of Round 1 in one direction, then split a ply and weave 3–4 stitches back in the opposite direction so the center hole can never loosen in the wash.

Variations (3 Decorative Borders & Matching Sets)

Overhead flat-lay comparison of three finished 4-round cotton coasters showing 1. Surface Slip Stitch Rim, 2. Two-Tone Contrast Round 4, and 3. Corded Crab Stitch Edge

1. Surface Slip Stitch Rim (Prevents Stretching)

After fastening off Round 4, join a contrasting color (or continue with your main color) and work 1 loose sl st into the back loop only (BLO) of each of the 48 stitches around. This frames the outer edge with a crisp braided chain that keeps the coaster flat when wet.

2. Two-Tone Contrast Round 4

Work Rounds 1–3 (36 dc) in Natural Cream cotton and fasten off with an invisible join. Join Sage Green or Terracotta cotton in any stitch and work Round 4 (48 dc) in the contrast color for a modern color-blocked rim.

3. Corded Crab Stitch (Reverse Single Crochet) Bumper

At the end of Round 4, ch 1 (do not turn) and work 1 reverse single crochet (crab stitch) from left to right into each of the 48 stitches around. The twisted rope edge acts as a raised lip that catches water droplets from icy glasses. Pair a set of 4 coasters with our matching crochet mug cozy for a quick handmade gift set!

Troubleshooting Common Round Coaster Problems

Problem / Symptom	Cause	How to Fix It
Coaster ruffles or waves like a lettuce leaf	Too many stitches in the round (often from working into the `sl st` join), or your `dc` stitches are pulled too tall and loose.	Count your stitches at the end of every round (`12, 24, 36, 48`). If the count is exactly 48 and it still ruffles, go down `0.5 mm` in hook size (from `5.0 mm` to `4.5 mm`).
Coaster curls upward like a shallow bowl	Too few increases, foundation tension is too tight, or your hook is too small for the yarn weight.	Verify you worked 12 increases per round (`+12 dc`). If the count is right, switch up `0.5 mm` in hook size or steam-block the coaster flat under a damp towel.
Center hole opens up after washing	Magic ring tail was trimmed too short instead of being woven back and forth.	Always leave a 6-inch magic ring tail and weave it in two opposing directions through the base of Round 1 before trimming.
Visible diagonal seam line across the coaster	Gap next to the `ch 3` turning chain on each round.	Work `ch 2` instead of `ch 3` at the start of Rounds 1–4, or replace the starting chain with a chainless standing double crochet.

Frequently Asked Questions

Why does a double crochet coaster start with 12 stitches instead of 6?

Because a double crochet stitch is roughly twice as tall as a single crochet stitch (π × diameter geometry), a flat circle in double crochet requires 12 stitches in Round 1 (and +12 stitches per round: 12, 24, 36, 48), whereas single crochet starts with 6 stitches (6, 12, 18, 24). Starting a double crochet circle with only 6 stitches will pull the fabric into a cone.

How many coasters can I make from one skein of cotton yarn?

One standard 4.25"–4.5" coaster uses roughly 16 to 20 yards (10–12 g) of worsted-weight (#4) cotton yarn (estimate). From a single standard 2.5 oz (70.9 g / 120 yd) skein of kitchen cotton, you can crochet a complete set of 5 to 6 coasters.

Should I block cotton crochet coasters?

Yes. Even if your stitch count is exact, cotton coasters look much crisper after blocking. Mist the finished coasters with water (or steam them lightly through a damp cotton dish towel), pat them into flat circles on a towel or foam mat, and let them air-dry completely.

Can I make this coaster without a magic ring?

Absolutely. If you find the magic ring tricky, chain 4 and work a slip stitch into the very first chain to form a small ring. Then chain 3 (counts as your 1st dc) and work 11 dc into the center of that ch-4 ring while holding the starting yarn tail along the ring so you can pull the center hole snug at the end of Round 1.

What is the best hook size for worsted cotton coasters?

A 4.5 mm (US 7) or 5.0 mm (US H-8) hook is ideal for CYC #4 Medium cotton coasters. Using a 4.5 mm hook produces a slightly denser, firmer coaster that doesn't flop when picked up.

About the Author

Claire Vance is a crochet pattern designer, technical editor, and fiber educator at DoubleCrochet.io. She specializes in circular stitch geometry, home accessories, and Craft Yarn Council-compliant pattern design.

Double Crochet Round Coaster Crochet Pattern

Pattern at a glance

Materials

Abbreviations

Pattern At a Glance & Skill Notes