Textured StitchesIntermediate

Double Crochet Cluster Stitch (2dc, 3dc, 4dc) vs. Bobble & Popcorn

Two to five incomplete double crochets closed together make a cluster, a bobble, or a popcorn — three ways to bundle one stitch into a raised, 3D texture.

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Macro photograph of a crocheted sampler swatch in cream, sage green, and terracotta worsted yarn showing rows of flat 3dc clusters alongside raised 3D 5dc bobbles and 5dc popcorn stitches.

Stitch at a glance

US terms
Double crochet clusterdc-cl, bobble, popcorn
UK terms
Treble clustertr-cl, bobble, popcorn
Intermediate

Turning chain: Not applicable (worked within a row or round)

By the DoubleCrochet Team | Last Updated: November 2026 | Skill Level: Easy to Intermediate

A double crochet cluster stitch (2dc-cl, 3dc-cl, or 4dc-cl) is worked by making 2, 3, or 4 incomplete double crochets into the same stitch or space—stopping each leg after the first yarn over, pull through 2 loops—and then yarning over and pulling through all loops on your hook at once (3 loops for a 2dc-cl, 4 loops for a 3dc-cl, or 5 loops for a 4dc-cl). Because every leg starts in the same base stitch and closes into one shared top V, a cluster adds plump, teardrop texture without changing your row's stitch count.

(Terminology note: This tutorial uses US crochet terms; in UK patterns, a US double crochet cluster is called a treble crochet cluster (2tr-cl, 3tr-cl, 4tr-cl).)

From flat teardrop 3dc clusters to high-relief 5dc bobbles and acorn-shaped 5dc popcorns, knowing how the tops and bases connect unlocks every grouped stitch in crochet.

Types of Cluster Crochet Stitches: Cluster vs. Bobble vs. Popcorn vs. Puff vs. Granny

Crocheters and pattern designers use five related terms for grouped stitches. Use this visual and structural guide to tell them apart instantly:

Overhead 5-panel comparison showing 1. 3dc Cluster (3dc-cl), 2. 5dc Bobble, 3. 5dc Popcorn, 4. Puff Stitch (hdc), and 5. Granny Cluster (3 dc).
Five grouped crochet stitches compared: 3dc Cluster (flat teardrop), 5dc Bobble (WS-worked 3D bump), 5dc Popcorn (dropped-loop 3D cup), hdc Puff Stitch, and 3-dc Granny Cluster.

Stitch Name & Abbreviation

Base Stitch Used

How the Stitches Are Worked

Loops on Hook Before Final Pull-Through

How the Top Closes

Surface Profile & Side Worked

1. Double Crochet Cluster (2dc-cl, 3dc-cl, 4dc-cl)

2, 3, or 4 incomplete dc in the same st/sp

Work each dc until 1 loop remains from that leg

N + 1 loops (3, 4, or 5 loops)

Yo, pull through all N + 1 loops at once

Flat, plump teardrop — reversible (RS or WS)

2. Bobble Stitch (5dc bobble / bo)

5 incomplete dc in the same st, flanked by short sc/hdc

Work 5 partial dc in 1 st; next stitch is usually a low sc

6 loops (5 partial dc + 1 starting loop)

Yo, pull through all 6 loops, then tighten next sc

Round 3D berry bump — worked on Wrong Side (WS) so it pops to RS

3. Popcorn Stitch (5dc pc / pop)

5 complete dc worked into the same st

Complete all 5 dc fully, then drop loop from hook

1 dropped live loop

Insert hook front-to-back in 1st dc top, pull 5th loop through

Firm, hollow 3D acorn cup — worked on Right Side (RS)

4. Puff Stitch (puff)

3 to 5 elongated half double crochet (hdc) yarn-overs

[Yo, insert hook, pull up tall loop] 3–5 times without working off loops

7, 9, or 11 loops (2N + 1 loops)

Yo, pull through all loops (or all but 1, then yo through 2)

Soft, pillowy braided oval — smooth, hook-snag-free

5. Granny Cluster / Shell Stitch

3 or 5 complete dc in the same st/sp

Complete every dc normally

Standard (3 → 2 → 1 per dc)

Not closed together — leaves 3 or 5 separate top Vs

Flat fan (1 base → 3 or 5 tops)

Important Distinction: 2dc Cluster vs. dc2tog Decrease

Beginners often ask why the hook movements for a 2dc cluster (2dc-cl) look identical to a dc2tog vs cluster decrease:

Side-by-side macro diagram in mustard yarn comparing a 2dc Cluster (1 Base Stitch to 1 Top Stitch) on the left with a dc2tog Decrease (2 Base Stitches to 1 Top Stitch) on the right.
A 2dc cluster works both partial double crochets into the SAME base stitch (0 stitch count change), whereas dc2tog works across TWO adjacent base stitches (-1 stitch decrease).
  • In a 2dc Cluster (2dc-cl): Both incomplete double crochets are worked into the exact same stitch or chain space (1 base stitch → 1 top V = no change in stitch count).
  • In a dc2tog Decrease: The first incomplete double crochet goes into Stitch A and the second goes into Stitch B (2 base stitches → 1 top V = decreases by 1 stitch).

How to Crochet a 2 Double Crochet Cluster (2dc-cl)

The 2dc-cl is the fastest cluster stitch, adding double the thickness of a single post without creating heavy bulk.

Step-by-Step Instructions (1 → 3 → 2 → 4 → 3 → 1 Loops)

  1. Start (1 loop on hook): Yarn over (yo), insert your hook into the target stitch or chain space, yarn over, and pull up a loop (3 loops on hook).
  2. First Partial dc: Yarn over and pull through the first 2 loops on your hook (2 loops remain on hook). Do not finish the double crochet.
  3. Start Second Leg: Yarn over, insert your hook into the exact same stitch or space, yarn over, and pull up a loop (4 loops on hook).
  4. Second Partial dc: Yarn over and pull through the first 2 loops on your hook (3 loops remain on hook).
  5. Close the Cluster: Yarn over and pull through all 3 loops on your hook (1 loop remains). One 2dc-cl is complete!

How to Crochet a 3 Double Crochet Cluster (3dc-cl) & 4dc Cluster

Four-panel macro photography guide to working a 3 Double Crochet Cluster (3dc-cl) in sage green yarn: 1. First Partial dc (2 Loops on Hook), 2. Second Partial dc (3 Loops on Hook), 3. Third Partial dc (4 Loops on Hook), and 4. Yarn Over & Pull Through All 4 Loops.
In a 3dc cluster (3dc-cl), each incomplete double crochet adds 1 waiting loop to your hook until you have 4 loops, then a single yarn-over pulls through all 4 loops at once.

Step-by-Step Instructions: 3dc Cluster (3dc-cl)

Follow the loop progression 1 → 3 → 2 → 4 → 3 → 5 → 4 → 1:

  1. First Partial dc: Yarn over, insert hook into stitch/space, yarn over, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), yarn over, and pull through 2 loops (2 loops remain).
  2. Second Partial dc: Yarn over, insert hook into the same stitch/space, yarn over, pull up a loop (4 loops on hook), yarn over, and pull through 2 loops (3 loops remain).
  3. Third Partial dc: Yarn over, insert hook into the same stitch/space, yarn over, pull up a loop (5 loops on hook), yarn over, and pull through 2 loops (4 loops remain).
  4. Close the Cluster: Yarn over and pull through all 4 loops on your hook (1 loop remains). (If your pattern calls for a ch 1 after the cluster, work that ch 1 now to lock the top and create the next row's chain space.)

Scaling Up to a 4 Double Crochet Cluster (4dc-cl)

To make an extra-plump 4dc-cl, simply work one additional partial dc into the same stitch/space before closing:

  • Work 4 incomplete double crochets into the same stitch until you have 5 loops on your hook (4 partial dc loops + 1 starting loop), then yarn over and pull through all 5 loops at once.

How to Make a Beginning Cluster (beg cl) at the Start of a Row or Round

When a row or round starts directly with a cluster, your turning chain (ch 2 or ch 3) acts as the first incomplete double crochet of that cluster, so you work 1 fewer partial dc:

  • Beginning 2dc Cluster (beg 2dc-cl): Ch 2 (or ch 3), work 1 dc into the very first stitch/space at the base of the chain. Because the turning chain and the dc share the top of that first stitch, they form a 2-post cluster (2 loops on hook at the end of the dc).
  • Beginning 3dc Cluster (beg 3dc-cl): Ch 2 (counts as first leg), work 2 incomplete double crochets into the same stitch/space (3 loops on hook), then yarn over and pull through all 3 loops.

Practice Pattern Recipe: 2-Row Repeat Double Crochet Cluster Swatch

Want to try an all-over textured cluster fabric for a scarf or throw blanket?

  • Foundation Chain: Chain any even number (for example, Ch 20 for a ~5" wide swatch, estimate).
  • Row 1 (Setup Row): Work 1 dc in the 4th ch from hook (skipped 3 chs count as first dc), *ch 1, skip next ch, work 3dc-cl in next ch; repeat from * across until 2 chains remain, ch 1, skip next ch, work 1 dc in last ch. Turn. (8 clusters + 2 edge dc)
  • Row 2 (Cluster Repeat Row): Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), work 3dc-cl into the first ch-1 space, *ch 1, skip next cluster, work 3dc-cl into next ch-1 space; repeat from * across, ending with 1 dc in the top of the turning ch-3 (skipping the final ch-1 space on odd/even stagger, or working ch 1, 1 dc in top of ch-3 to keep 8 clusters per row). Repeat Row 2!

How to Crochet the Double Crochet Bobble Stitch (5dc Bobble)

Unlike a flat cluster that blends into a row of tall double crochets, a 5dc Bobble Stitch (bo) is flanked immediately by short single crochets (sc). When you pull the next stitch down to sc height, the 5 tall double crochet posts have nowhere to go except outward, folding in half into a round 3D berry!

Two-panel macro comparison showing a 5dc Bobble (6 Loops on Hook, worked on Wrong Side) on the left versus a 5dc Popcorn (Drop Loop, pull 5th top through 1st top on Right Side) on the right.
A 5dc Bobble (left) holds 6 loops on the hook and pops out toward the back of your work (so it is worked on Wrong Side rows), whereas a 5dc Popcorn (right) completes all 5 dc and pinches the 1st and 5th tops together on the Right Side.

Step-by-Step Instructions: 5dc Bobble Stitch (Worked on Wrong Side Row)

  1. Work 5 Incomplete dc in One Stitch: [Yarn over, insert hook into stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through 2 loops] 5 times all into the same stitch. You now have 6 loops on your hook (5 partial dc loops + 1 starting loop).
  2. Close the Bobble: Yarn over and pull through all 6 loops on your hook (1 loop remains). Tip: Do NOT chain 1 to lock the bobble unless your pattern specifically says to—skipping the extra chain keeps the bobble tighter.
  3. Anchor & Push Forward with 1 sc: Insert your hook immediately into the next stitch, work 1 tight single crochet (sc), and use your left middle finger to push the 5-dc bundle away from you toward the Right Side (RS) of the fabric.

How to Crochet the Double Crochet Popcorn Stitch (5dc Popcorn)

A 5dc Popcorn Stitch (pc or pop) creates the firmest, most sculpted 3D texture in crochet—shaped like a hollow little cup or kernel of popped corn—and is worked with the Right Side (RS) facing you.

Step-by-Step Instructions: 5dc Popcorn Stitch (Right-Side Row)

  1. Work 5 Complete dc in One Stitch: Work 5 full, finished double crochet stitches into the same stitch or space (just as if you were making a 5dc shell).
  2. Drop the Live Loop: Pull the loop on your hook up slightly (~1 inch tall) so it cannot unravel, and remove your hook from the loop.
  3. Insert Hook into the 1st dc Top: Count back 5 stitches to the 1st double crochet of that 5-dc group. Insert your hook from front to back under both top V loops of that 1st dc.
  4. Pinch the Popcorn Closed: Put the dropped live loop from the 5th dc back onto your hook, tighten it onto the shaft, and pull that loop right through the top of the 1st dc. This folds the 5-dc fan forward in a circle, pinching the 1st and 5th tops together so the center pops toward you on the Right Side!
  5. Optional Locking Ch 1: Work ch 1 if instructed by your pattern to secure the top of the popcorn before moving to the next stitch.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

How do I count stitches on the row after a Cluster, Bobble, or Popcorn stitch?

Even though a 3dc-cl, 5dc bobble, or 5dc popcorn contains 3 to 5 vertical posts, all of those posts converge into a single top V (the closing stitch). When working the next row back across, treat the entire cluster, bobble, or popcorn as 1 single stitch—unless your pattern instructed you to work a ch 1 after closing it, in which case you have 1 stitch top + 1 ch-1 space.

Why are my bobble stitches popping out on the wrong side of my blanket?

Because of crochet hand mechanics, closing 6 loops together and working a tight sc next to them naturally pushes the 5-post bundle away from you (to the back of the work). That is why patterns almost always place Bobble rows on Wrong Side (WS, even-numbered) rows and plain sc or dc rows on Right Side (RS, odd-numbered) rows. If one bobble pops backward toward the Wrong Side, simply poke it through to the Right Side with your finger!

Which uses more yarn: a 5dc Bobble or a 5dc Popcorn stitch?

A 5dc Popcorn stitch uses slightly more yarn per motif than a 5dc Bobble stitch. In a 5dc popcorn, every single one of the 5 double crochets receives its own final yarn over, pull through 2 top cap before you pinch the 1st and 5th stitches shut (5 complete top caps). In a 5dc bobble, all 5 incomplete posts share one single final yarn-over (1 shared top cap). Both 3D stitches are significant yarn eaters compared to flat double crochet—always buy an extra skein when adding bobble or popcorn panels to a blanket.

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