How to Make a Double Crochet Blanket: Sizing Chart & Pattern

Making a double crochet (dc) blanket is one of the most rewarding beginner projects because each tall stitch builds row height quickly while creating a soft, cozy fabric with natural drape. To crochet a classic double crochet blanket in #4 worsted-weight yarn with a 5.5 mm (I-9) hook (at a typical gauge of 14 dc × 8 rows = 4" × 4", estimate), you simply multiply your target width in inches by 3.5 stitches per inch, add 2 or 3 turning chains (or start with a chainless foundation double crochet), and work back and forth in rows until the blanket reaches your desired length. Below, you'll find a complete 7-size starting chain and yardage chart, foolproof rules for straight side edges, and a free 3-Color Block-Stripe Throw Pattern.

US vs. UK Terminology Note: This guide uses standard US crochet terms. In UK crochet patterns, double crochet (dc) is called treble crochet (tr), and single crochet (sc) is called double crochet (dc). See our US vs. UK crochet terms guide for full conversions.

Double Crochet Blanket Size Chart (Starting Chains, Rows & Yardage)

The master chart below gives you the starting chain count, total stitch count per row, row count, and estimated yarn yardage for 7 standard blanket sizes worked in solid double crochet using #4 Medium/Worsted yarn and a 5.5 mm (I-9) hook at a baseline gauge of 14 dc × 8 rows = 4" × 4" (3.5 dc per inch horizontally, 2.0 rows per inch vertically) (estimate).

Note: Starting chain counts below include + 2 extra chains assuming you work your first dc into the 4th chain from the hook (where the 3 skipped chains count as Stitch #1). If you use a custom yarn weight or hook, plug your swatch numbers into our interactive blanket size calculator.

Step 1: Two Ways to Start Your Blanket (Without a Tight Bottom Edge)

The #1 problem crocheters run into on Row 1 of a blanket is the "rainbow curve": the foundation chain pulls tighter than the double crochet rows above it, causing the bottom edge of the blanket to pucker inward. You can prevent this completely with either of two starting methods:

Method 1: Standard Foundation Chain (Use a +0.5 mm to +1.0 mm Larger Hook)

If you prefer starting with a traditional foundation chain:

1. Make your slip knot and work your entire foundation chain using a crochet hook one full size larger (6.0 mm J-10 or 6.5 mm K-10.5) than your main blanket hook (5.5 mm I-9).
2. Clip a stitch marker every 25 chains as you go so you never lose count.
3. Switch back to your 5.5 mm (I-9) hook to work Row 1 and the rest of the blanket.

Method 2: Chainless Foundation Double Crochet (FDC)

Instead of chaining 177 and working back across a long, twisting cord, you can build the foundation chain and Row 1 simultaneously using Foundation Double Crochet (FDC). FDC has the exact same elasticity as the middle rows of your blanket, and you can simply stop stitching when the strip reaches your target width in inches.

Step 2: How to Keep Your Blanket Edges Perfectly Straight

Crooked, widening, or scalloping blanket sides happen when you accidentally add or drop a stitch at the turning edge. Pick one of these two turning methods and stick with it for the entire blanket:

• Option A — The Ch 2 (Does Not Count as a Stitch) Method (Easiest for Beginners):
  • At the end of each row, turn your work and chain 2 (ch 2). This ch 2 does not count as a stitch; it only brings your hook up to row height.
  • Work your first dc of the row directly into the very first stitch (right at the base of the ch 2).
  • At the end of the row, work your final dc into the top V-loop of the last actual dc—ignore the previous row's ch 2 completely.
• Option B — Chainless Standing / Stacked Single Crochet (Zero Edge Gaps):
  • Turn your work without chaining, pull up a loop in the first stitch, work 1 single crochet, then insert your hook into the left vertical bar of that single crochet and work a second single crochet stacked on top. It looks and acts just like a real double crochet post with zero gap!

Free Pattern: The 3-Color Block-Stripe Double Crochet Throw (50" × 60")

Ready to put everything into practice? This beginner-friendly throw uses the Ch 2 (does not count as a stitch) method for ruler-straight edges, three soothing color blocks, and a crisp 2-round single crochet border.

Materials & Specs

• Finished Size: Standard Throw — approx. 50" wide × 60" long (127 × 152 cm) (estimate)
• Yarn: #4 Medium / Worsted weight acrylic or wool-blend yarn (approx. 2,500 yards total, estimate):
  • Color A (Warm Cream): ~950 yards
  • Color B (Sage Green): ~800 yards
  • Color C (Terracotta Rust): ~750 yards
• Hook: 5.5 mm (US I-9) for blanket body; 6.0 mm (US J-10) for foundation chain only
• Notions: 4 locking stitch markers, tapestry needle, scissors
• Gauge: 14 dc × 8 rows = 4" × 4" (10 × 10 cm) (estimate)

Blanket Body Instructions

1. Foundation Chain: With Color A (Cream) and your larger 6.0 mm hook, chain 177. Switch to your 5.5 mm hook.
2. Row 1 (RS): Work 1 dc into the 3rd chain from the hook (the 2 skipped chains do not count as a stitch) and 1 dc in each chain across to the end. Turn. (175 dc)
   • Tip: Place a locking stitch marker into the top V-loop of Stitch #1 and Stitch #175.
3. Row 2 (WS): Ch 2 (does not count as a stitch here and throughout), work 1 dc into the very first stitch at the base of the ch 2, and work 1 dc into each stitch across, placing the final dc into the marked 175th stitch. Move your markers up to the first and last stitch of the new row. Turn. (175 dc)
4. Rows 3–16: Repeat Row 2 with Color A (Cream) until you have completed 16 rows (approx. 8 inches). On the final pull-through of Stitch #175 on Row 16, change color to Color B (Sage Green). Fasten off Color A leaving a 6-inch tail.

3-Color Stripe Sequence (120 Rows Total)

Work 16 rows per color block (8 inches per stripe), changing color on the final yarn-over of the 16th row:

• Rows 1–16: Color A (Cream)
• Rows 17–32: Color B (Sage Green)
• Rows 33–48: Color C (Terracotta)
• Rows 49–64: Color A (Cream)
• Rows 65–80: Color B (Sage Green)
• Rows 81–96: Color C (Terracotta)
• Rows 97–112: Color A (Cream)
• Rows 113–120 (Final Half-Block, 8 rows): Color B (Sage Green). Do not fasten off if working the border in Color B, or switch to Color A for the border. (Want to design your own custom stripe widths? Use our crochet stripe calculator.)

Clean 2-Round Single Crochet Border

1. Weave In Stripe Tails First: Before starting the border, weave in all color-change ends along the side edges.
2. Round 1 (RS facing): Join Color A (Cream) in the top-right corner stitch, ch 1:
   • Top & Bottom Edges: Work 1 sc in each stitch across (175 sc per horizontal edge).
   • Corners: Work (1 sc, ch 2, 1 sc) into each of the 4 corner stitches so the corners lie completely flat without curling.
   • Left & Right Row-End Edges: Work 2 sc around the side post of each dc row end (240 sc along each 120-row side edge). Join with a sl st to the first sc.
3. Round 2: Ch 1, work 1 sc in each sc around, placing (1 sc, ch 2, 1 sc) in each corner ch-2 space. Join with an invisible join or sl st, fasten off, and weave in the final tail.

Want More Texture? Explore 25 Free Double Crochet Blanket Patterns

Once you've mastered a solid or striped double crochet blanket, you can use the exact same stitch mechanics to work textured variations like the Double Crochet V-Stitch, Shell Stitch, Modern Granny Stripe, or Waffle Post Stitch. To browse curated patterns sorted by yarn weight and texture, head over to our complete roundup of 25 free blanket patterns.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)