How to Crochet the Second Row (Turning Chain and First Stitch)

By Double Crochet Editorial Team | Last Updated: November 2026

To crochet the second row, work a turning chain to bring your hook up to the height of your stitch, flip your piece right-to-left like turning the page of a book, and insert your hook under both top loops (V) of the stitch below. If your turning chain does not count as a stitch (standard for single crochet), work your first stitch into the very first stitch at the base of the turning chain; if your turning chain counts as a stitch (standard for double crochet), skip that first base stitch and work into the second stitch across.

US vs. UK Terminology Note: This guide uses US crochet terms throughout. US single crochet (sc) is called double crochet (dc) in UK patterns, US half double crochet (hdc) is called half treble (htr) in the UK, and US double crochet (dc) is called treble crochet (tr) in the UK.

Why the Second Row Feels Different from Row 1

Almost every crocheter hits a wall at the end of Row 1. Even if your foundation chain and first row went smoothly, transitioning to Row 2 changes two fundamental mechanics at once:

1. You stop working into chains and start working into stitches: In Row 1, you pushed your hook into a single loop (or the back bump) of each flat foundation chain. Starting in Row 2—and for every row after—you insert your hook front-to-back underneath both top strands of the sideways V sitting along the top edge of Row 1 (unless a pattern specifically calls for back-loop-only or front-loop-only stitches).
2. The first and last stitches look different: When you flip your work at the end of Row 1, the stitch you just finished becomes the very first stitch of Row 2, and the first stitch you made in Row 1 becomes the final stitch at the far left edge of Row 2. Missing either one—or working an extra stitch into the base of a counted turning chain—is the primary reason beginner projects accidentally grow into wide trapezoids or shrink into triangles.

Step 1: How to Turn Your Work (Like a Book Page)

Crochet in flat rows is worked from right to left (for right-handed crocheters; left-handed crocheters work from left to right). When you reach the end of Row 1 and have no chains left to work into, you must turn the piece around so you can work back across the top of Row 1.

1. Finish the final stitch of Row 1: Complete the last pull-through of your final stitch in the foundation chain so only one active loop remains on your hook.
2. Make your turning chain (or turn first—just stay consistent): Most patterns instruct you to chain 1, turn (or ch 3, turn). You can make your turning chain before flipping the work or after flipping the work; both produce the same stitch count as long as you do it the same way on every row.
3. Flip right-to-left (counterclockwise when viewed from above): Leaving your hook inside the active loop, take the left end of your Row 1 strip and swing it over toward your right hand—just like turning the page of a hardcover book.
4. Check your working yarn position: When you turn counterclockwise (like a book page), the working yarn naturally sits behind your hook, ready to yarn over without wrapping around the outer edge of your turning chain. If you turn clockwise one row and counterclockwise the next, the edge of your fabric will look bumpy and uneven.

Step 2: The Turning Chain for Each Stitch

Because crochet stitches have vertical height, you cannot simply flip your work and immediately make a stitch—the top of your hook would pull the side of the row down and scrunch the corner. The turning chain (t-ch) acts as a vertical ladder that lifts the yarn from the top of Row 1 up to the height of Row 2.

Step 3: Where the First Stitch Goes in Row 2

The single biggest source of confusion on the second row is deciding whether to insert your hook into the very first stitch directly under the turning chain (Stitch #1) or skip it and go into the next stitch (Stitch #2).

Here is the universal rule that governs every crochet pattern:

• If the turning chain does NOT count as a stitch: Insert your hook into the very first stitch at the base of the turning chain (Stitch #1).
• If the turning chain DOES count as a stitch: The turning chain is already acting as Stitch #1 sitting directly on top of the first stitch below. You must skip that first base stitch and insert your hook into the second stitch across (Stitch #2).

Single Crochet (sc) — Row 2 Worked Example

Suppose you want a 10-stitch swatch of single crochet:

• Foundation & Row 1 Math: Chain 11 (10 base chains + 1 extra chain). Work 1 sc in the 2nd chain from the hook and in each remaining chain across. Row 1 total = 10 sc.
• Starting Row 2: Chain 1 and turn your work. Because a ch 1 in single crochet is only a height lifter and does not count as a stitch, do not skip the first stitch.
• Where the hook goes: Look right below your ch 1 (not into the ch 1 itself). Insert your hook front-to-back under both top loops (V) of the very first stitch—the stitch you just finished at the end of Row 1. Work 1 sc into that 1st stitch, and 1 sc into each of the remaining 9 stitches across.
• Row 2 Math: 10 sc worked into 10 stitches (ch 1 ignored) = 10 stitches total.

Half Double Crochet (hdc) — Row 2 Worked Example

In half double crochet, designers use two different conventions, and a well-written pattern will state which one it uses in the pattern notes:

• Option A — Turning chain does NOT count as a stitch (most common for clean edges):
  • Row 1: Chain 11. Work 1 hdc in the 2nd chain from hook and across = 10 hdc.
  • Row 2: Chain 2 (or ch 1) and turn. Work your first hdc into the very first stitch at the base of the chain (Stitch #1), and work across all 10 stitches. At the end of Row 3, ignore the ch 2 from Row 2.
  • Row 2 Math: 10 hdc worked + ch 2 ignored = 10 stitches total.
• Option B — Turning chain COUNTS as a stitch:
  • Row 1: Chain 11. Work 1 hdc in the 3rd chain from hook (the 2 skipped chains count as 1 hdc) and in each remaining 8 chains across = 1 counted chain + 9 hdc = 10 stitches total.
  • Row 2: Chain 2 (counts as Stitch #1) and turn. Skip the first stitch at the base of the ch 2, work your first real hdc into the second stitch, and work 1 hdc into each stitch across, putting the 10th stitch into the top of the turning chain from Row 1.
  • Row 2 Math: 1 counted ch 2 + 9 hdc worked = 10 stitches total.

Double Crochet (dc) — Row 2 Worked Example

In traditional double crochet patterns, the ch 3 turning chain almost always counts as the first double crochet of the row:

• Foundation & Row 1 Math: For a 10-stitch swatch, chain 12 (10 + 2). Work 1 dc into the 4th chain from the hook (the 3 skipped chains count as your 1st dc) and 1 dc in each of the remaining 8 chains across. Row 1 total: 1 counted chain + 9 dc = 10 stitches.
• Starting Row 2: Chain 3 and turn. Because that ch 3 stands directly over the first stitch and counts as Stitch #1 of Row 2, look at the base of your ch 3, skip that very first stitch, and yarn over to insert your hook under both top V loops of the second stitch across.
• Finishing Row 2: Work 1 dc into Stitches #2 through #9 (8 dc), and work your final (10th) dc into the top chain (3rd chain) of the turning chain at the far left end of Row 1.
• Row 2 Math: 1 counted ch 3 + 9 dc worked = 10 stitches total.

Want cleaner edges without the ch-3 gap? Many crocheters dislike the small keyhole gap left behind when a ch 3 counts as a stitch. Once you understand how Row 2 works, check out our dedicated guide on how to get straight edges in double crochet for chain-2 uncounted, stacked single crochet, and chainless starting double crochet techniques.

Step 4: Where the Last Stitch Goes (and How Not to Miss It)

If placing the first stitch is where beginners accidentally add a stitch, reaching the end of Row 2 is where beginners accidentally lose a stitch.

What the last stitch of Row 2 looks like depends on how your turning chain was treated in Row 1:

1. When the turning chain does NOT count as a stitch (sc and uncounted hdc/dc):
   • Your last stitch of Row 2 goes into the top V of the very first real stitch you made at the start of Row 1.
   • Because that stitch sits right next to the initial turning chain or slip knot, its V often tilts slightly downward toward the side edge. Tilt the top edge of your work toward your eyes to see both strands of that final V, and push your hook under both loops. Do not work into the small ch 1 turning chain below it.
2. When the turning chain DOES count as a stitch (standard dc and tr):
   • At the start of Row 1, your 3 skipped foundation chains acted as Stitch #1. When you reach the far left end of Row 2, that 3-chain post is your 10th and final stitch.
   • You must work your final dc of Row 2 into the top chain (the 3rd chain up) of that turning chain. Insert your hook under two strands of that top chain (the front loop and back bump) so the edge stitch doesn't stretch open. If you stop at the last regular dc post and ignore the turning chain, you will lose 1 stitch on every single row!

The Two-Marker Trick That Guarantees Perfect Row Counts

Even experienced crocheters use two locking stitch markers on wide rows:

• Marker #1: As soon as you make the first stitch of Row 1 (or the top chain of a counted ch 3), clip a locking stitch marker under its top V. When you work across Row 2 and reach the left end, you don't have to guess where to stop—your last stitch goes directly into the marked stitch.
• Marker #2: When you start Row 2, clip a second marker into your first stitch of Row 2 (either the top of your counted ch 3 or the top V of your first uncounted stitch) so it is waiting for you at the end of Row 3.

Crocheting the Second Row of a Blanket

Working Row 2 on a full-size throw or baby blanket (120 to 200+ stitches across) introduces two unique challenges that don't show up on a 10-stitch practice swatch:

1. The "Row 2 Curl" is normal: On a long blanket foundation chain, Row 1 and Row 2 almost always twist or curl like a ribbon because the bottom foundation chain has less stretch than the tops of your stitches. Do not rip your blanket out if Row 2 curls slightly—once you complete Rows 3 and 4, the weight of the fabric pulls the rows flat. (If the bottom edge still pulls tight like a bowstring after Row 4, your foundation chain was worked too tightly; redo the chain using a hook 0.5 mm to 1.0 mm larger, then switch back to your main hook for Row 1.)
2. Matching your start and end rules keeps the blanket rectangular: On a 150-stitch blanket, gaining or losing just 1 stitch per row adds or subtracts 20 stitches over 20 rows. Always pair your start and end rules symmetrically:
   • Rule Pair 1 (Uncounted Chain): Work into the 1st stitch at the start of the row, and do not work into the turning chain at the end of the next row.
   • Rule Pair 2 (Counted Chain): Skip the 1st stitch and work into the 2nd stitch at the start of the row, and always work your final stitch into the top of the turning chain at the end of the next row.
   • Mixing Rule Pair 1 and Rule Pair 2 is why a blanket grows or shrinks! Always count your stitches at the end of Row 1 and Row 2 before continuing to Row 3.

Quick Troubleshooting: Why Is My Second Row Wider or Narrower?

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)