Crochet a Fitted Maxi Skirt: Stretchy Waist and Hip Shaping

A fitted skirt has to do two things: go over your hips, and follow their curve. This one, from Elise's lilthings channel, handles the first with foundation double crochet, a starting row that stretches far more than a chain. The second comes from where you put the increases: at the sides and across the back, but not at the front, so the front stays smooth and flat while the back follows your shape.

It's a long, mostly plain project; the shaping rounds are the only ones that need attention.

Video tutorial by Elise on her YouTube channel, lilthings: watch "crochet easy skirt for beginner | crochet long easy maxi dress" on YouTube.

Written from the video. The shaping follows your own measurements, so measure and try it on often.

Materials

• 2 or more skeins of yarn (Elise uses a soft variegated yarn)
• A hook between 3.5 and 4.0 mm
• Stitch markers, a tape measure, scissors and a darning needle

Waist: foundation double crochet

A plain chain doesn't stretch, so a skirt that starts with one may not pull over your hips. Foundation double crochet makes the chain and the first row at the same time, and it stretches like the rest of the fabric.

1. Chain 4. Yarn over, insert the hook into the first chain, and pull up a loop.
2. Yarn over and pull through 1 loop only. This makes the "chain" at the base of the stitch.
3. [Yarn over, pull through 2] twice. That's one foundation double crochet.
4. For the next stitch, insert the hook into the chain at the base of the one you just made, and repeat.

Keep going until the strip stretches over your hips. Elise's was about 88 cm. Join it into a ring without twisting. See our foundation double crochet tutorial for photos.

Shaping

Put markers at the two sides and the centre back.

1. Waist: 5 rounds of plain dc.
2. Hip transition: 4 rounds, alternating a round with 4 increases (one at the start, two at the far side, one at the end) and a round with 2 increases (one at the start, one at the side).
3. Back hip curve: keep the front plain. Work 1 or 2 increases at each side, and across the back half work [5 dc, 1 increase] for 2 to 3 rounds.
4. Easing off: 2 rounds with [15 dc, 1 increase] across the back.
5. Widest point: 3 to 6 plain rounds over the widest part of your hips.

Try it on after each step. When it sits smoothly over the hips, stop increasing.

Below the hips

For a fitted silhouette, mirror the shaping: work dc2tog decreases at the sides and every 15 to 20 stitches across the back, with 2 plain rounds between decrease rounds. Keep going until it reaches your ankles.

For a straighter or flared skirt, stop decreasing earlier, or work plain rounds all the way down.

Tips

• Measure the widest part. Measure your hips at their fullest; the skirt has to pass over that point.
• Mark the sides. Increases at the sides only line up if your markers are moved up every round.
• Weigh your yarn. A maxi skirt uses a lot. Weigh a finished round so you know how many more rounds a skein will give you.

Frequently asked questions